AXIAL XR10 PART 1: ROLLER - SECTION 1

PARTS
XR10 Kit
Hot Bodies Rovers
2 Motors

TOOLS
1.5mm, 2.0mm & 2.5mm Hex drivers
Small pliers
10mm Socket (optional)
Caliper or metric ruler


As a team driver I got my XR10 earlier than most and figured I'd share some of my experiences in building it.
I'm not going to repeat all of the instruction manual but I will share some notes and comments about each STEP.
If you have any questions or comments you can catch me on RCCRAWLER.COM or TXRCRCA.COM

SECTION 1: FRONT AXLE

STEP 1
Opening Bag A for the front axle and the first thing to remember is the tech tip from Brandon. You can remove material from the plate(s) so you can remove the gearbox(s) for maintenance. This works for both axles. The other plate is in Bag C and you may as well open it and do them both at once. I didn’t see any specific measurements anywhere for how much to take off so I took off several eleventybillionths.

Finished STEP 1:


STEP 2
Break open the plastic parts 1 bag. I used the XR10 box to dump the plastic parts in, so I don’t have any wander off as my beer intake increases.
One thing to take note of … when you screw the cover (AX80063) to the plate, you need to have the shaft and gear pulled away from the plate enough to have the gear nest in the cover:

Even when complete with STEP 2, the shaft and the gears will still be loose in the plate.
Finished STEP 2 :


STEP 3
Nothing to note here.
Finished STEP 3:


STEP 4
Back to the plastic parts bag and you’ll also want to grab the white tube of grease.
I know the instructions point it out, but don’t forget the small lock nut that goes into AX80066. Also, before you fully crank down on the screws, I suggest making sure everything spins fairly easily. That way you’ll know everything is lined up in the gearbox.
Finished STEP 4:


STEP 5
No rocket science here. Just make sure you set the motor correctly and move on. Funny thing I noticed is that the HH hand wounds I have are 40t and not 45 like I thought. Will have to see how these do but I may move down to 55ts if I can’t bring then down enough with the pinions.
Finished STEP 5:


STEP 6
Go back into the plastic parts for the axle housing … front axle housing that is. Remember that front & rear are different on the XR10. Open Bag B and make sure you separate the screws correctly. There will be 2 bags with screws and you must make sure the AXA465 screws go in the right place. You need to make sure they all do … but especially the AXA465s. I out took every flat head screw in the bag and picked the two of the shortest (there were 4 total in my bag).

One way to check to make sure you have the right screws is to flip it over and make sure nothing broke through and into the center of the housing on either side of the visible gear.
Finished STEP 6:


STEP 7
Yes, there is a direction for that gear …. Open the bag and take it out and you’ll see…
Finished STEP 7:


STEP 8
In this STEP we will use some machine screws instead of the self tappers. Note that each screw that holds the axle together is different. Remember that when you are tightening screw AXA149 it is going into the lock nut you installed earlier. I was concerned that I had stripped something out when I started to tighten it, then the nut started to cinch down and I remembered about it.
Finished STEP 8:


STEP 9
Back to the plastic parts back for the inner knuckles (aka “C’s”) and the other servo mount tower. Note that the other servo tower is on the parts tree with the rear axle cover (AX80063). One thing I noticed at this point is that the knuckles have several options for clocking. Way to go Axial!
( knuckle's at 180* to illustrate the options)

Make sure you mount the knuckles with the taper going in as it goes towards the top.
Finished STEP 9:


STEP 10
Installing the shafts and … I think these will hold up just fine. Another thing I realized at this point … I have yet to see a Phillip’s head screw and I like that
Finished STEP 10:


STEP 11
Pull the outer knuckles from the plastic parts bag. If you do like I did, the first thing you’ll do is pop the knuckles off the parts tree and then you’ll mix them up. No worries, the arm AX30568 mounts on the side of the knuckle that is machined flat as pictured. So if you can’t tell which is which, hold them both so that the flat side of the nub is facing up and you’ll figure it out.
Finished STEP 11:


STEP 12
At this point, if you have the inner C’s on upside down … you’ll know it.
Finished STEP 12:


STEP 13
Pull a set of the rod ends out of the plastic parts bag and make some connecting rods for the steering.
Note that the threads on the turnbuckle are reversed on one side. Also, remember the turnbuckle side of the 4 way wrench can help you start a stubborn rod end.

Finished STEP 13:


STEP 14
Make sure you install everything in the right direction and you are done with the front axle … for now …
Finished STEP 14:


On to SECTION 2: REAR AXLE