Chassis to body LED connection
Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:40 pmI had originally setup the LEDs on my SCX10 so that anytime I wanted to run the lights on the body I had to plug them in. The whole kit was on a switch but unless I had plugged everything in ahead of time I had to remove the body to get the lights on it to work. It wasn't a huge ordeal but I started to get tired of it.
Luckily one day as I was digging through my 1:1 Jeep parts I remembered the 3rd brake light wiring and how they had it setup. 2 contacts on each side and one set is spring loaded so it keeps pressure on the other set of contacts. That was my inspiration to get rid of the extra wire I had floating around...
1. My first step was to pick a nice flat spot on the body & chassis where I could setup the contacts. For me, this turned out to be the original rear velcro body mount.
2. From there, I assembled my spring loaded contacts. I tried using fuel tubing before I did the springs, and it could work, but this is a lot softer and worked better for me:
3. I added a piece of styrene under the old body mount to screw the spring loaded contacts into. I purposely mounted it below because even as the springs compress you will still have something sticking up/down. Your application may vary:
4. Next I added eyelets to the wiring on the chassis side and screwed them to the bottom of the contacts. Then I reassembled everything.
5. On the body side, I had a nice flat surface to work with, so I drilled two holes to mount the body side contacts.
6. This side is pretty easy to figure out. A dab of grease on the other contacts can help you locate the proper drill/mount points.
7. And here is the payoff. All 4 contacts lined up with each other before I set the body down. It's hard to see but now whenever I mount my body I don't have to fiddle with any extra wires.
Luckily one day as I was digging through my 1:1 Jeep parts I remembered the 3rd brake light wiring and how they had it setup. 2 contacts on each side and one set is spring loaded so it keeps pressure on the other set of contacts. That was my inspiration to get rid of the extra wire I had floating around...
1. My first step was to pick a nice flat spot on the body & chassis where I could setup the contacts. For me, this turned out to be the original rear velcro body mount.
2. From there, I assembled my spring loaded contacts. I tried using fuel tubing before I did the springs, and it could work, but this is a lot softer and worked better for me:
3. I added a piece of styrene under the old body mount to screw the spring loaded contacts into. I purposely mounted it below because even as the springs compress you will still have something sticking up/down. Your application may vary:
4. Next I added eyelets to the wiring on the chassis side and screwed them to the bottom of the contacts. Then I reassembled everything.
5. On the body side, I had a nice flat surface to work with, so I drilled two holes to mount the body side contacts.
6. This side is pretty easy to figure out. A dab of grease on the other contacts can help you locate the proper drill/mount points.
7. And here is the payoff. All 4 contacts lined up with each other before I set the body down. It's hard to see but now whenever I mount my body I don't have to fiddle with any extra wires.
